Tag Archives: lichen

ANGEL TRAIL – THE GARDEN IN WINTER AT GRAVETYE MANOR AND RHS WISLEY

LOOKING AT THE GARDEN IN WINTER WITH AN ANGEL ON MY SHOULDER
pennisetum                Ethereal seedheads of Pennisetum alopecuroides ‘Hameln’, RHS Wisley

It has become something of a personal tradition at this time of year to set off with my backpack for a day of Christmas shopping and to find myself veering off into the cool marble halls of a favourite gallery or museum instead. Last week, on my way to buy some boxes of heavenly salted caramel chocolates from Fortnum & Mason (purchased with the time-honoured principle of three boxes to give as presents, one box to present to yourself … ) it became obvious that my time would be best spent in the Sainsbury Wing of the National Gallery. Here, amongst roomfuls of paintings which must collectively feature hundreds or even thousands of angels, the Gallery has cleverly chosen just ten particularly fine, 14th and 15th Century paintings to form a manageable and uplifting ‘Angel Trail’ for the Christmas visitor.

It is a powerful and cheering experience and I urge you to call in and see the paintings for yourself – at any time of year. The modest size of the ‘Angel Trail’ is key to its success because you have space in your head to look at the paintings properly. I remember hearing David Linley  on Desert Island Discs describing how his father, Anthony Armstrong-Jones, would regularly pop into the National Gallery with him, maybe on a Saturday afternoon on the way to something else, with the mission to look at just one painting intently. It was a brilliant gift from father to son.

The ‘Angel Trail’ paintings linger in my head as I return to my everyday world of plants and gardens. Ranks of golden willow leaves suddenly have the quality of angel wings and a fragile, papery seed head becomes a light ethereal presence. So here is my Christmas blogpost looking at the garden in winter, with an angel on my shoulder.

‘ANGEL TRAIL’ PAINTING NO. 1

Matteo di Giovanni, active 1452; died 1495 The Assumption of the Virgin probably 1474 Tempera and gold on wood, 331.5 x 174 cm, 150 kg Bought, 1884 NG1155 http://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG1155

The Assumption of the VIrgin, Matteo di Giovanni, tempera and gold on wood, probably 1474, National Gallery, London, Room 59

This monumental Assumption of the Virgin in its towering frame, offers a bulging Virgin Mary, radiant in pink, gold and white on a shimmering gold ground. The angels busy themselves in a fluttering network around her.

As I walk around the RHS garden at Wisley, the leaves of Hamamelis mollis ‘Boskoop’ hang fat, round and golden, happily echoing Matteo di Giovanni’s bold, fecund painting.

hamamelis closeHamamelis mollis ‘Boskoop’

Witch hazel is mostly grown for the fiery flowers that will open up from those velvety buds, but the power of the shrub to bring light into the late season garden with its autumn foliage colour should never be under estimated.

In a sunnier part Wisley’s Battleston Hill, the fine, shredded flowers of Hamamelis x intermedia ‘Orange Peel’ are already blazing away in this exceptionally mild December.

IMG_3503Hamamelis x intermedia ‘Orange Peel’

For the white and pink of the Virgin’s robe, and the throng of angels that encircle her, I offer this lovely rose – a tangle of white blooms and fading red hips against a pale blue winter sky:
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White roses and rose hips against a winter sky

‘ANGEL TRAIL’ PAINTING NO. 2

Lorenzo Monaco, active 1399; died 1423 or 1424 The Coronation of the Virgin: Central Main Tier Panel 1407-9 Egg tempera on wood, 220.5 x 115.2 cm Bought, 1902 NG1897 This painting is part of the group: 'San Benedetto Altarpiece' (L2; NG215-NG216; NG1897; NG2862; NG4062) http://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG1897

The Coronation of the Virgin, part of the San Benedetto Altarpiece, Lorenzo Monaco, tempera on wood, 1407-9, National Gallery London, Room 53

I am struck by the simple clarity of the pale pink, yellow and blue of the angels’ robes in this Lorenzo Monaco painting.

At Wisley I find the lovely evergreen ground cover Vinca difformis beginning to light up the woodland floor with its translucent powder blue flowers. This is a  vigorous but not invasive periwinkle which reliably flowers in late winter and early spring. I am happy to note how the pairs of bright green leaves form pairs of angel wings along the stem.

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IMG_1290Vinca difformis, RHS Garden, Wisley – palest blue flowers and pairs of leaves like angels’ wings

I struggle to match the chalky yellow of the central angel’s drapery, but in Rosa ‘Mortimer Sackler’, (an almost thornless repeat flowering shrub rose with loosely double, very fragrant soft pink flowers), I find an excellent echo for the subdued whitish-pink of the angels on either side.

IMG_3653             Rosa ‘Mortimer Sackler’

Near the Alpine Houses, trailing rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis ‘Prostratus Group’) is in full flower. The shape of its arching stems mirror the shape of angel wings:

IMG_1360Rosmarinus officinalis Prostratus Group

‘ANGEL TRAIL’ PAINTING NO. 3

English or French (?) Richard II presented to the Virgin and Child by his Patron Saint John the Baptist and Saints Edward and Edmund ('The Wilton Diptych') about 1395-9 Egg on oak, 53 x 37 cm Bought with a special grant and contributions from Samuel Courtauld, Viscount Rothermere, C.T. Stoop and The Art Fund, 1929. NG4451 http://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG4451

‘The Wilton Diptych’ – Richard II presented to the Virgin and Child by his Patron Saint John the Baptist and Saints Edward and Edmund, English or French (?), egg on oak, about  1395-9, National Gallery London, Room 53

‘The Wilton Diptych’ is one of my favourite paintings. Here the eye is immediately drawn to the unforgettable rhythmic quality of the angels’ wings on right hand panel, as well the rich cobalt blue of the angels’ and Virgin Mary’s gowns.

At Wisley I fall for a fantastic willow with its suspended ranks of golden-yellow autumn leaves. It is Salix udensis ‘Sekka’  – the Dragon or Fantail Willow. It is a handsome plant for a moist part of the garden with unusual flattened stems and silvery green catkins. It can be stooled to 30cm above ground in spring to keep it a manageable size and is available from the wonderful Bluebell Nursery.

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Salix udensis ‘Sekka’, RHS wisley

In my search for elegant, rhythmically arranged leaves I make a new discovery: a really good looking, low growing Mahonia. Here the Mahonia eurbracteata ‘Sweet Winter’ – which will only reach a metre in height – makes a valuable evergreen understory to a handsome, rounded specimen of variegated Chinese privet, Ligustrum lucidum ‘Excelsum Superbum’:

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Mahonia eurobracteata ‘Sweet Winter’ growing under variegated Chinese Privet at RHS WIsley

A few days later I am walking around the garden of Gravetye Manor  in East Sussex, the former home of Victorian ‘wild gardener’ William Robinson and now a wonderful hotel. The garden is is being passionately and imaginatively restored under Head Gardener, Tom Coward, and I have a brilliant morning with him learning so much about every aspect of the garden.

The heavy-boughed Magnolia campbellii – whose graceful branches dip down over the terraces of the Little Garden and the Flower Garden – also reminds me of the elegant Wilton Diptych angels. The Magnolia is silvery in bud against the bursts of rich blue sky.

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Magnolia campbelii, Gravetye Manor

‘ANGEL TRAIL’ PAINTING NO. 4

Piero della Francesca, about 1415/20 - 1492 The Nativity 1470-5 Oil on poplar, 124.4 x 122.6 cm Bought, 1874 NG908 http://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG908The Nativity, Piero della Francesca, oil on poplar, 1470-75, National Gallery London, Room 66

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IMG_3710Details from: The Nativity, Piero della Francesca, oil on poplar, 1470-75, National Gallery, London, Room 66

I have long loved the soft, sober, no frills – no wings – absorption of these music making angels in this scratchy, tough, almost monotone countryside Nativity. There is a timelessness and naturalness to the painting style – you can feel the arrival of winter in a warm, dry land.

In the garden at Gravetye, stands of artichokes are left to cast jagged silhouettes against the sky, the glaucous new foliage contrasting as sharply as baby Jesus’ blue blanket with the arid land around him.

chok1 1 choke 3 Winter seed heads of artichokes, Gravetye Manor

In one border, slender golden stems of Calamagrostis form a sand coloured sheet beneath the artichoke seed heads:chosek2WInter seed heads of Artichokes with Calamagrostis, Gravetye Manor

Back at Wisley, Phlomis russeliana forms neat stands of pompom seed heads on upright stems – a good match for the tightly shaped trees in the background of the Piero della Francesca painting.

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Phlomis russeliana seedheads, RHS Wisley

‘ANGEL TRAIL’ PAINTING NO 5

Fra Filippo Lippi, born about 1406; died 1469 The Annunciation about 1450-3 Egg tempera on wood, 68.6 x 152.7 cm Presented by Sir Charles Eastlake, 1861 NG666 This painting is part of the group: 'Medici (Overdoor?) Panels' (NG666-NG667) http://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG666

The Annunciation, Fra Filippo Lippi, egg tempera on wood, about 1450-53, National Gallery, London, Room 54

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Details from The Annunciation, Fra Filippo Lippi

An extremely beautiful and intense painting with subdued, subtle colouring and a powerful sense of the Virgin Mary bathed in the light of the Angel.

In the garden at Wisley the arching stems of this berberis, the leaves just turning to gold, light up and give energy to a rather demure autumn shrubbery.

colouring berberis? colouring berberis 2Arching stems of berberis, RHS Wisley

It is hard to find a sweetly jewelled spring meadow in December, but this lone magenta Cyclamen coum has emerged from a low mat of rounded, silver-marked leaves and will soon be joined by more flowers.

cyclamenThe first flower in a mat of Cyclamen coum

In the garden at Gravetye I am smitten by the soft, low mounds of winter flowering heather – Erica carnea.  Tom Howard is pleased that I like them so much – winter flowering heathers have become so deeply unfashionable -but here they look wonderful, gently clothing the stone walls and providing an inviting, cushioning, tiny-flowered back drop to the steps and benches. He has been trying to champion them, but is not sure how well the conversion attempt is going!   They are fantastically easy to grow and, unlike most heathers, don’t need an acidic soil. These heathers at Gravetye have the idiosyncratic, spreading elegance that comes, of course, with plants of a certain age, so consider planting sooner rather than later.

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Mounds of Erica carnea providing a soft backdrop for steps and benches at Gravetye Manor

‘ANGEL TRAIL’ PAINTING NO. 6

Master of the Saint Bartholomew Altarpiece, active about 1470 to about 1510 The Virgin and Child with Musical Angels about 1485-1500 Oil on oak, 52 x 38 cm Bought, 1985 NG6499 http://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG6499

Virgin and Child with Musical Angels, Master of the Saint Bartolomew Altarpiece, about 1485-1500, oil on oak, National Gallery, London, Room 64

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Details of Virgin and Child with Musical Angels, Master of the Saint Bartolomew Altarpiece, National Gallery, London

This lovely, playful, much more mannered painting is full of movement and the colours are bright – clear pinks, whites and a luminous pale gold. The delicate columbine to the left of the Virgin allludes to the Holy Ghost and to the right there are cornflowers and carnations – the latter symbolic of Christ’s future sacrifice.

In the absence of these early summer flowers I suggest the beautiful, velvety buds of the winter flowering shrub Edgeworthia chrysantha. I love the baby-toed neatness of the buds against the elegant network of cinnamon coloured branches. Soon the buds will open to reveal fragrant yellow flowers, immaculate clusters of tiny yellow trumpets which look almost too perfect to be true.

IMG_1345 IMG_1347Edgeworthia chysantha, RHS Wisley

For pale pink and an even sweeter fragrance which carries tantalisingly in the air, upright shrubs of the wonderful Daphne bholua are already in flower all over the garden.

daphne b 1Daphne bholua, RHS WISLEY

‘ANGEL TRAIL’ PAINTING NO. 7

Geertgen tot Sint Jans, about 1455/65; died about 1485/95 The Nativity at Night possibly about 1490 Oil on oak, 34 x 25.3 cm Bought, 1925 NG4081 http://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG4081The Nativity at Night, Geertgen tot Sint Jans, oil on oak, possibly about 1490, National Gallery, London, Room 63

This ‘Nativity at Night’ was unknown to me before this visit to The National Gallery but it will now be amongst the first Nativity paintings I will think of at this time of year. It is a powerful painting with an extraordinary radiant glow emanating from the baby Jesus, a lustrous depth to the surrounding darkness and a haunting, tiny, crumpled angel hovering above.

The ethereal angel follows me closely as I observe the winter garden – here in a stand of delicate just-standing seed heads of the white globe thistle, Echinops bannaticus ‘Star Frost’:

echinops 4Echinops bannaticus ‘Star Frost’, RHS Wisley

Here in the fine, bleached fragility of end of season Pennisetum alopecuroides ‘Hameln’:
pennisetum                                               Pennisetum alopecuroides ‘Hameln’, RHS Wisley

and here in the tousled, light-catching, cotton-wool seed heads of white japanese anemones Anemone x hybrida ‘Honorine Jobert’:

jap close up

jap anemoneAnemone x hybrida ‘Honorine Jobert’, RHS Wisley

At Gravetye Manor in East Sussex the air is so clean that the naked branches of deciduous trees and shrubs are lacy with exquisite lichen which has something of the same suspended, ghostly quality.

lichen 1lichen 2                                            Lichen on naked branches, Gravetye Manor

‘ANGEL TRAIL’ PAINTING NO. 8

Bartolomé Bermejo, about 1440 - after 1495 Saint Michael triumphant over the Devil with the Donor Antonio Juan 1468 Oil and gold on wood, 179.7 x 81.9 cm Bought by Private Treaty Sale with a grant from the American Friends of the National Gallery, London, made possible by Mr J. Paul Getty Jnr’s Endowment Fund, 1995 NG6553 http://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG6553

Saint Michael triumphant over the Devil with the Donor Antonio Juan, Bartolomé Bermejo, oil and gold on wood, 1468, National Gallery, London, Room 63

This extraordinary painting of an elegant angel in fully armoured battle mode is infused with a dull golden glow and a pinky-red, the colour of the interior of a pomegranate.

I am struck by the fine, metallic, wing-like quality of the classic garden sea holly, Eryngium giganteum ‘Silver Ghost’ in its crisped December phase:

eryngimum leaf eryngiumum and perovskia

eryngium 2jpg                                           Eryngium giganteum ‘Silver Ghost’, RHS Wisley

And I love the way these backlit velvety buds of Magnolia campbellii at Gravetye frame the view of the soft red Liquidambar tree in the mist beyond – a fine match for the subtly burnished tones of the painting.

backlit mag buds and liquid

Liquidambar framed by backlit buds of Magnolia campbellii, Gravetye Manor

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Liquidambar in the mist, Gravetye

There is a similar regal, wintry feel to this sombre view of a pine tree and heavily berried Viburnum opulus:

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Pine tree and heavily berried Viburnum opulus, Gravetye Manor

‘ANGEL TRAIL’ PAINTING NO.9

Simon Marmion, active 1449; died 1489 A Choir of Angels: From Left Hand Shutter about 1459 Oil on oak, 57.6 x 20.9 cm Bought, 1860 NG1303 This painting is part of the group: 'Fragments of Shutters from the St Bertin Altarpiece' (NG1302-NG1303) http://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG1303

A Choir of Angels, Simon Marmion, oil on oak, about 1459, National Gallery, London, Room 63

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Detail from A Choir of Angels, Simon Marmion, National Gallery, London

The clear, almost tropical colours and wonderful dynamic energy of these perfectly arranged angels in their gorgeous curving robes make for a painting more powerful and more memorable than you might expect from its modest size – just over 50 by 20cm.

This brilliant green and yellow oak leaf is a perfect echo:

IMG_1394Oak leaf, December, RHS Wisley

As are the neatly arranged leaves of one of my favourite shrubs for winter/early spring, Stachyrus praecox – here showing brilliant acid green end of season colour which contrasts perfectly with the luminous pink of the petioles. In early spring the tiny ruby buds will open into pendant strings of primrose yellow bell shaped flowers on bare branches.

stach again stach

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Leaves and buds (bottom photograph) of Stachyrus praecox, RHS Wisley

I come across this stand of Cornus sericea ‘Hedgerows Gold’ at a rather brilliant moment – the leaves going into winter with a wild dance as they turn from green to yellow to pink:

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mystery angel plnat 3 mystery angel plant 2 Cornus sericea ‘Hedgerows Gold’, RHS Wisley

‘ANGEL TRAIL’ PAINTING NO. 10

Hans Memling, active 1465; died 1494 The Virgin and Child with Saints and Donors (The Donne Triptych) about 1478 Oil on oak, 71 x 70.3 cm Acquired under the terms of the Finance Act from the Duke of Devonshire's Collection, 1957 NG6275.1 This painting is part of the group: 'The Donne Triptych' (NG6275.1-NG6275.3) http://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG6275.1

The Donne Triptych, Virgin and Child with Saints and Donors, Hans Memling, oil on oak, about 1478, National Gallery London, Room 63

IMG_3702Detail of The Donne Triptych, Hans Memling, about 1478, National Gallery, London, Room 63

I love the calm order and balanced structure of this Hans Memling painting, the flat mid-green of the landscape beyond, a gentle, anchoring contrast to the rich red of the Virgin’s robes and  the canopy above her throne. The focus is, of course, upon the fruit being offered to the baby Jesus. There are no enticing pears to be found on my travels around the December garden but there are other gorgeous fruit which are celebratory enough for a Christmas painting.

I have long wanted a strawberry tree – Arbutus unedo. Such a handsome evergreen tree which has the generous quality of offering its pretty shell-pink flowers at the same time as its scarlet pendant fruit. Arbutus unedo is pretty as a small shrub but worth planting as soon as you can, as a spreading, slightly gnarled mature tree is particularly handsome. The fruit are edible although famously ‘unedo’ is believed to be a contraction of the Latin ‘unum edo’ – meaning ‘I eat one’ i.e. they are not as appetising as you might hope.

arbutus flower 2arbutus flower 1
arbutus 2 more arbutusArbutus unedo ‘Roselily Minlily’, RHS Wisley

Elsewhere at Wisley this medlar tree is humming with its strange brown fruits suspended like tiny, happy space ships amongst flying yellow leaves:

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Medlar fruit and leaves, RHS Wisley

My favourite fruit – absolutely worth seeking out if you can – is the extraordinary fruit of the Handkerchief tree, Davidia involucrata. The garden at Gravetye boasts two wonderful mature Davidias – and maturity is what is required as a young tree typically takes 15-20 years to flower. The flowers are surrounded by spectacular, slightly drooping, white flower bracts – which give the tree its ‘handkerchief’ name:

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Davidia involucrata in flower

The spherical nut-like fruits that follow hang from particularly graceful curving pink stalks – as dynamic and covetable as an Alexander Calder mobile:

IMG_1428 davidia fruits IMG_3763

 

 

davidia fruits silhouetterDavidia involucrata fruit, Gravetye Manor

My final festive offering is this perky alternative Christmas tree – a monkey puzzle or Araucaria araucana. I love its muscly form – the fine mid-green takes me back to the immaculate grass sward of The Donne Tryptich:

monkey puzzle monkey puzzle close upMonkey Puzzle tree in the December sunshine, RHS WIsley

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The Donne Tryptich, Hans Memling, National Gallery, London

So I have reached the end of another year of THE DAHLIA PAPERS.  It has been a brilliant year with so many unexpected and uplifting new friendships and new connections. Thank you so much for reading, following and commenting and I wish you all a very Happy New Year,

Non,

19.Xii.2015

PS You may enjoy listening to a podcast I recorded this week for the Guardian on the best gardening books of 2015 – with the Guardian Gardening Editor, Jane Perrone, Books Editor, Clare Armistead, Matthew Wilson (‘Landscape Man’) designer, writer and snowdrop expert, Naomi Slade and Director of the Garden Museum, Christopher Woodward

http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/gardening-blog/audio/2015/dec/19/sow-grow-repeat-best-gardening-books-of-2015

A WINTER JOURNEY TO PAINSWICK

SNOWDROPS, SNOW AND SCHUBERT ON THE WAY TO PAINSWICK ROCOCO GARDEN

WINTER DEERThe last day of January 2015 was bitter and wet. January has been its grim self and I rather badly want a break. In the darkening afternoon I take myself off to the Dulwich Picture Gallery to catch ‘From the Forest to the Sea – Emily Carr in British Columbia’ (on until 15th March).  It is quietly uplifting to be welcomed again into its dark red old-master-encrusted walls and the exhibition of paintings by this feisty, pioneering Canadian painter (1871-1945) is indeed a revelation. I love the folding, almost tropical richness and weight of her earlier forest scenes.  There is a mesmerising strength to the white simplicity of the chapel building against the oppressive, towering greens in Indian Church, 1929.

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Indian Church, oil on canvas, 1929, Emily Carr

A decade or so later Carr was working in a different, lighter, faster way. She had moved from the study of monumental, mature forest to painting more open woodland. “I bought cheap paper by the quire. Carrying a light, folding cedar-wood drawing board, a bottle of gasoline (petrol), large bristle brushes and oil paints, I spent all the time I could in the woods”.  The resultant paintings of younger, ‘frivolous’ trees have the scratchy energy and flickering licks of colour that remind me of Rodin’s watercolour sketches of dancers.

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Happiness, oil on paper, 1939, Emily Carr

Her writing is as intoxicating as her painting. One of her most famous paintings is a dazzling image of a skinny survivor in an area of felled forest Scorned as Timber, Beloved of Sky, 1935. 

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Scorned as TImber, Beloved of the Sky, oil on canvas, 1935, Emily Carr

She writes “there is nothing so strong as growing…life is in the soil. Touch it with air and light and it will burst forth, like a match”.  Definitely the sort of fighting talk I was in need of.

 

Sissinghurst way

On Monday morning, still thinking about the tirelessness and individuality of Carr’s celebratory study of landscape, I set off to meet Nettie Edwards who has been spending an intensive year as Artist-photographer in Residence at Painswick Rococo gardens.  Nettie – whose photographs of Painswick I recommended in my December 2014 blog – has invited me to see the famous Painswick snowdrops and to find out more about her work.  The day – happily we are now in February – is cold and bright.

I have decided to spend the journey to Gloucestershire listening to Ian Bostridge’s new recording of Schubert’s WInterreise. As I pass the towering Tesco signs at Earl’s Court to turn West onto the M4 I am driven achingly forward by Bostridge’s fine, eloquent, sometimes startling performance. I arrive at the appointed hour at Painswick Rococo Garden Coach House Restaurant with a bit of a bump.

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Before we set foot in the garden I spend two brilliant hours in a subtle rainbow world of plant dye and the quest for sunlight. Nettie’s enthusiasm for her work at the Rococo Garden where she has focused on developing her photographic work with Anthothotypes in particular, is inspiring .  She describes the process and many of her experiments eloquently and generously in her blog Hortus Lucis A year in a garden of light : ‘Quite simply, to make an Anthotype you need plant matter and sunlight. Not much of the former, but in most cases, rather a lot of the latter. Dye is extracted from the plant matter, paper is coated with the dye, a photographic transparency is placed on top of the dyed paper, both are exposed to UV light which bleaches away areas of the dyed paper, leaving an image.’

Working at Painswick Nettie wanted to use material seasonally available from the garden.  It is the perfect artistic residency for a garden – an incredibly intimate way for an artist to work, where the garden provides both the medium and the subject matter. The often surprising discoveries made by trying to extract dye from different plants gives her work a rich story-telling resonance – during a residency in the town of Atina, Italy she worked with geranium petals from the town square and poignant transparencies from war time photographs and she has just returned from Versailles with a quantity of fallen lichen which she will perhaps use in combination with her strongly geometric photographs of this tightly structured garden.

ATINA_GERANIUMSAtina Geraniums, copyright Nettie Edwards @lumilyon 2014
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Versailles Avenue, copyright Nettie Edwards, @lumilyon 2014

MIDNIGHT ECLIPSE SWEET PEA_VERSAILLES

Midnight Eclipse, Sweet Peas, Versailles, copyright Nettie Edwards @lumilyon 2014

The fragility of the final works when they are exposed to light powerfully echoes the ephemeral nature of the flowers and plants from which they are made and this fragility is for Nettie a crucial part of the process.

Nettie’s first experiments with anthotypes had been with wild garlic leaves – the  resultant, crisped pale green japanese papers still smell faintly of garlic.  The effect of tap water or spring water, the age of the paper (Nettie sometimes uses paper from old books with their built in chemicals which produce extraordinarily different effects) or sometimes vodka are all different and always a journey into the unknown.  The names of her portfolio covers alone are rich with connotation: ‘Blue plumbago and tap water’, ‘The Sweetpea papers’ ,’Lilac buddleja with vodka,’Red onion skin and geranium leaves”.

On arrival at Painswick, a surplus of beetroot from the Kitchen Garden led to a fantastic range of papers to work with.

SELECTION OF PAPERS COATED WITHONE AND TWO LAYERS OF BEETROOT DYE COPYRIGHT NETTIE EDWARDS @lymilyon 2014

Beetroot coated papers – copyright Nettie Edwards @ lumilyon 2014

This glowering transparency of her photograph of the Eagle House at Painswick:

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Transparency of The Eagle House, Painswick Rococo Garden, copyright Nettie Edwards @lumilyon 2014

was pinned against a beetroot coated paper and given many days of sunlight:

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Transparency of The Eagle House, against a beetroot coated paper being exposed to sunlight –  copyright Nettie Edwards @ lumilyon 2014.

The resultant image is wonderful – rich and subtle and ethereal:

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Beetroot Anthotype of The Eagle House, copyright Nettie Edwards @Lumilyon 2014

And here is a gorgeous, subtle later image made with a surprisingly grey-green paper made from purple alliums.

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Anthotype with purple alliums, copyright Nettie Edwards @lumilyon 2014

And then we visit the garden itself.  There is a lot to work out. Painswick Rococo Garden was created in the 1740’s by the Hyett family and is regarded as one of the finest examples of this kind of personal idyllic pleasure ground.  It is laid out in a hidden valley behind Painswick House – the natural shape of the land allowing for a combination of long, formal vistas and geometric patterns as well as the informality of winding paths, asymmetry and a playful collection of garden buildings. A 1748 painting by Thomas Robins is so detailed that no-one is certain if it is a record of the original layout of the garden or indeed a proposed garden design.

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Painting of Painswick House and Garden by Thomas Robins, 1748

The garden you see today – restoration from a neglected and overgrown state began in 1984 – is immaculately well cared for and as delightfully easy to enjoy as Robin’s painting:

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Painswick Rococo Garden: view to the vegetable garden and yew allée

Nettie shows me some of her favourite elements of the garden –  loving the simplicity of sheets of snowdrops, glassy reflections on the Exedra pond and stark regiments of perfectly pruned espalier apple trees  – and yet wishing I could somehow simultaneously see it in the softness of late spring:

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Sheets of snowdrops in the woodland

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The Exedra Pond – the slender line crossing the image is just a temporary fence

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The Exedra – faithfully restored with timber and lime plaster –  beyond immaculately pruned espaliered apple trees

There is an attractive, practical integrity to the way the garden is now run. Produce from the abundant kitchen garden supplies the friendly Coach House Restaurant which produces delicious food.  We had delicious roasted pumpkin soup and shared an incredible orange and almond cake for lunch. The restaurant is the sort of place that puts out a plate of squares of treacle tart on the counter so you can be tempted to a whole slice perhaps or just be happy to have half an inch of outrageous deliciousness.

The garden uses heritage seeds wherever possible and is concerned to grow as many plants as possible which would have been available in the eighteenth century. Even the maze, planted in 1998 to celebrate the 250th anniversary of the Robins’ painting of the garden is cleverly designed by Professor Angela Newing – a  physicist and maze specialist who amazingly lived in the town of Painswick – to represent a 2, a 5, and an 0.

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The Maze at Painswick Rococo Garden

The two acres of woodland planted in the 60’s are being gently transformed to include a serious holly collection and there is an ever-increasing, well curated list of snowdrops including huge swathes of the substantial, honey-scented  Galanthus ‘Atkinsii’ – named after a worker who lived on the Estate in the 1800’s.Iatkinsii

Galanthus ‘Atkinsii’

Snowdrops are beautifully grown – they are especially lovely here with sheets of foliage from autumn flowering Cyclamen hederifolium:

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Snowdrops with sheets of Cyclamen hederifolium as a foil

And here with the hart’s tongue fern, Asplenium scolopendrium, catching the light and creating a sumptuous glossy woodland feel.

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snowdrops with Asplenium scolopendrium

We visit the stocky Pigeon House (the only building in the garden that had a practical purpose – i.e to house pigeons), and the enticingly positioned Gothic Alcove:

IMG_2819The Pigeon House, Painswick Rococo Garden

IMG_2817The Gothic Alcove, Painswick Rococo Garden

We walk carefully around The Plunge Pool – famous for being as cold in summer when a gentleman might choose to take a dip, as it is now in mid-winter:

IMG_2801The Plunge Pool, Painswick Rococo Garden

And as I catch another glimpse of the Exedra, this time through woodland:

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The Exedra glimpsed through woodland, Painswick Rococo Garden

and see how two of the buildings play effectively off each other – there is an inevitable, rather impressive view of the Eagle House in the distance with the crisp white Exedra in front – I begin to understand the garden and its buildings better.

two building togetherThe Eagle House seen in the background with the Exedra in the foreground, Painswick Rococo Garden.

But it is probably only when I come to The Red House – a richly lime-washed asymmetric building with  ‘hinged facades’, angled so that each one is enticingly positioned at the end of a key path or allée green door – that I begin to feel really excited:

red house painswick snowThe Red House, Painswick Rococo Gardens

I love the lichen-laced oak door which has become a brilliant and inviting bright green:

greener doorThe welcoming green door to the Red House

And the mottled, chalky texture of the red lime wash – a handsome backdrop to the light gloss of the hart’s tongue fern

fern red houseHart’s Tongue Fern – Asplenium Scolopendrium – against the red lime-washed walls of the Red House

The door way frames the view effortlessly:

IMG_8869View framed by the Red House doorway

And the simple ashlar stone interior with its handsomely paved floor is brightly illuminated by intense pockets of stained glass; these in turn cast floaty pools of colour on the pale grey interior:

stone floorStone floor, The Red House, Painswick

IMwindowA stained glass window, The Red House, Painswick

pale glass reflectionReflection of coloured glass on stone, The Red House, Painswick

As I walk around the garden one more time in the fading light, the windows take on a tantalising mirrored effect: 

mirror windowTantalising mirrored effect of late afternoon sun on the windows, The Red House, Painswick

I leave the garden and drive towards Aston Magna to spend the night with my sister and her family in their new house.  As we peel ourselves away from the wood burning stove to head for bed we realise it has started snowing properly.  There is something special about experiencing your first snow in a new house.

And so to my perfect bedtime reading.  I am part of the way through Ian Bostridge’s book about his relationship with Schubert’s ‘WInter Journey’, the ‘Winterreise’ which he sings so beautifully.

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I am hugely enjoying the book:  it is written in a compellingly simple style with a perceptive clarity that shines a light on everything it touches.  I love the graceful, investigative pace of it, the way the text moves from an illuminating analysis of a single line to a rich exploration of other literature or a painting, perhaps, that has a connection to the Lieder.  In the chapter on Frühlingstraum, Dream of Spring, Bostridge explains what is at stake in the piece and the subtle decisions needed from the piano introduction onwards.  He then takes the idea of the ‘leaves and flowers’ ‘painted’ by the frost on the window pane, and the painful longing for the green of spring throughout this song, and illustrates how German literature is “suffused with the notion of Eisblumen, ice flowers”. He moves outward to take in images of fire and ice in Charlotte Brontë’s novels and then to give a beautiful account of the exquisite history of the study of snowflakes.

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Page from the Frühlingstraum chapter,  Schubert’s Winter Journey – by Ian Bostridge

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Page from the Frühlingstraum chapter, Schubert’s Winter Journey, by Ian Bostridge

We wake the next morning to a delightfully pale world and go for a wonderful winter walk.

WINTER DEERA pair of deer, winter walk, Gloucestershire

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 Lines and tracks in snow, winter walk, Gloucestershire

bird foot  printsPheasant footprints in snow, winterwalk, Gloucestershire

lichen and snowPatterns of snow on lichen-encrusted branches, winter walk, Gloucestershire.

I drive back to London listening again to the Winterreise but promising to return to Painswick when it is soft and full again with Queen Anne’s Lace and apple blossom.

eagle-house-colour-120514-e1400020545316Eagle House, Painswick Rococo Garden, May 2014, copyright Nettie Edwards @lumilyon 2014







































THE LAND WHERE LICHENS GROW

IN SEARCH OF THE SCOTTISH PRIMROSE ON ORKNEY – WHILST DREAMING ABOUT THE STORY OF CITRUS IN ITALY

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Gatwick airport, Thursday 15th May 2014.  I check the weather forecast for the weekend ahead on my iPhone.  Forecast for London over the weekend: a scorcher, rising to 28ºC.  Edinburgh (where we will spend the night): not bad, quite sunny today at least, temperatures may reach 18ºC.  Stromness, Mainland, Orkney – three hundred miles further north, where we are heading the next day – maximum daytime temperature 8ºC. Rain.

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Coastline on Mainland Orkney – Sunday 17 May 2014

We have a lovely evening in Edinburgh and stroll around tamely in our shirt sleeves munching tiny hand baked oat cakes unpasteurised Orkney Cheddar from specialist cheese shop I.J Mellis.mellis

We admire the elegant lifestyle of an Edinburgh dweller in his idyllic Mews house with the fragrant Syringa meyeri ‘Palibin’ exactly matching the faded raspberry paint of his front door:

edinburgh lilacAs we settle down in the small plane for a weekend on Orkney I ignore the fact that the temperature gauge outside must be plummeting and sink back into Helena Attlee’s wonderful sensual and sun-filled account of the citrus in Italy, ‘The Land Where Lemons Grow’.

It is a brilliant, constantly surprising history of the impact of Citrus on  communities across Italy at different times.  But is arguably a dangerous choice for this particular trip.  “You only have to fly into Catania airport in Sicily in late spring to appreciate the raw power of zagara (citrus blossom) for, as the doors open, the scent will bludgeon its way onto the plane … green buds form like a haze all over the sour orange tree, opening into pure white, five-petalled stars around a clutch of yellow stakes.  Zagara fills the air with an invasive, migrant scent ….”

When we arrive at our hotel in Kirkwall things are a little grey and treeless but we are glad to note that the our hotel offers one potential – does the name ‘Highland Park’ mean anything to you? – way to cheer us up:

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Before I put on my bobble hat and waterproof trousers for the first major expedition of the weekend I sneak in a few more dreamy lines from Ms Attlee:

“Silence, heat, a scent of wild fennnel and a view across the great bowl of the Conca d’Oro to the blank blue sea beyond … a common orange, like the Navel or Valencia has a sugary, one-dimensional taste.  Eating a Sicilian blood orange is a much more complex experience.  Take the Tarocco: its meltingly soft flesh also has a high sugar content, but its sweetness is balanced by high acidity.  The result is a complicated, multi-dimensional flavour that unfolds slowly, subtly, beguilingly … wafer-thin discs of its marble flesh are combined with fennel, good olive oil, salt, a sprinkiling of choopped fennel leaves and black pepper, or used in pale pink risotto, bright red jelly and dark pink ice cream …”

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Detail of Botticelli’s ‘Spring’ in the inside cover of ‘The Land where Lemons Grow’

I am riveted by the history of the the complex art of creating perfume from the essential oil of the bergamot. In 1708, when he was only 23,  Giovanni Marina Farina invented a bergamot based perfume named Eau de Cologne after the city where he lived.  In a letter to his brother he described his invention as “the scent of a spring morning in Italy, of mountain narcissus and citrus blossom after rain”.

I read on – it is as if I have been personally rumbled: “for his northern European customers the perfume conveyed the exotic essence of everything they yearned for in the sunny south”. Eau de Cologne “became the perfume of the great houses and royal courts of the eighteenth century Europe” … Voltaire described is as a “fragrance that inspired the spirit” and if you visitied Goethe “you would have found him writing beside a box of rags soaked in the stuff”

Enough! (I may or may not have ordered a bottle of the original Farina 1709 cologne using the hotel wifi before going out and join the others on the bus.)

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Farina 1709 Eau de Cologne

This afternoon, as the sky hangs thick and white-grey around us, we are in search of the Scottish Primrose.  It is a slightly crazy sight – forty or so conservation experts and environmentalists (plus the odd spouse)  spilling out onto an RSPB maritime heath reserve to search for this diminutive, scarce, plant.

2 blokes in search of a primrose

The heathland looks vast and unpromising but it is only here in Caithness and Sutherland – these days mostly in protected areas of wild habitat – and only in May and then again in July that we have a hope of finding this dark purple primrose, 4cm high and 8mm in diameter with five heart shaped petals ….

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Then at last!

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Non is on the case

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Primula Scotica – each flower less than a quarter of my finger nail

Tiny, rare, an incredible survivor. I am struck by how important it is for a jewel like this to get the chance to carry on.

By the next morning I am in a new phase and start falling for the incredible greens yellows and ochres that pervade Orkney.

I love the unstoppable ranks of flag iris that march onwards towards the shore:iphone flag iris

And the pale dancing leaves of Silverweed (Argentina anserina) amongst the turf:

silverweedSilverweed – Argentina anserina

I love the natural artfulness of  flag iris and marsh marigold planting itself deftly into the folds of a stream:

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Flag Iris (Iris pseudacorus) and Marsh Marigold (Caltha palustris)

And then I get to see the lichen.  The walls of the sixteenth century St Magnus’ Church on the island of Birsay are enveloped in the most wonderful velvety camouflage of rich ochre. st magnus church

St Magnus’ Church, Birsay

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Lichen on dry stone walls surrounding St Magnus’ Church, Birsayst magnus gate post

Handsome rocket-shaped gate post, St Magnus’ Church, Birsay

st magnus dry stone stepsIngenious – lichen-laced – steps built into dry stone wall around St Magnus’ Church

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My particular favourite map-of-the-world lichen

The famous Ring of Brodgar – the beautiful neolithic henge and stone circle surrounded by sea, the cleanest air and wild flower meadows – provide even more addictive examples of lichen on stone.
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Three standing stones from the Ring of Brodgar


brognar stone 2A powerful standing stone piercing the sky – incredible lichen

brognar lichen 1 Close up of white-on-grey lichen on a stone from The Ring of Brodgar

brognar lichen 2 Close up of paint-splash lichen on a stone from The Ring of Brodgar

broganr lichen 2 Velvety lichen on a stone from the RIng of Brodgar

Elsewhere the cliffs are gorgeously stepped and lightly coated with the same rich yellow:
drystone cliffs 2

We are in this spot for a long while – entranced by the swooping lines of Kittiwakes and gannets. Shocking to learn that the numbers of Kittiwakes alone have diminished by 87% in the last five years.  Sweet lacy clumps of ribwort plantain and bobbing pink thrift edge the cliff.IMG_3514

Thrift and Ribwort Plantain

Even the world under the clearest seawater shares the same gold against grey palette:IMG_3500

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We walk past a beautifully restored house with handsome crow-stepped gables. The house is in the ultimate position with a dry-stone walled garden that wanders loosely down to the shore.  There was obviously only one colour to paint it:

dreamhouse iphotoOchre house on Birsay, Orkney

As we look out of the bus window on the way home I realise that in this raw land of outstanding natural beauty I have found something new to dream about:
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View from bus window of sea, sky and ochre house on Birsay, Orkney